Press release - Lead winners
Fedir Samoilov took the Lead and combined title in Bratislava. Kotake wins among women
BRATISLAVA, June 23, 2018: The World University Sport Climbing Championship finished in Bratislava with the finals in men´s and women´s Lead categories. On the K2 climbing wall, only Fedir Samoilov of Ukraine managed to reach the top. Among women, Mei Kotake of Japan got the closest and took the victory.
The precious victory among women went to Japan thanks to Mei Kotake. The silver goes to the French Maelys Agrapart and bronze to Salome Romain also from France.
“It was pretty difficult but now I feel relieved and happy. I wanted to get the top but I am happy for this result. Yesterday, I focused on my climbing in Boulder but my body condition was not very good because of cold weather. Now we stay in Austria before another World Cup. I already graduated last March. I studied nutri-tion in Tokyo. Now, I will only focus on climbing thanks to the support of one of the company,” said Kotake.
The overall victory in combination of all three events went to the French Julia Chanourdie among women and Fedir Samoilov of Ukraine among men.
“To me, the Lead title would be more precious than the combined victory because I focus on the Lead. But I know I must work on the Speed to even improve my overall result towards Tokyo 2020. We will see. It is still far from the Olympics. I practice Speed only once a month so it is not enough. This is a title so I am very happy. In Shanghai, two years ago, I won the combined competition as well as the Lead so I am glad to defend one gold medal. But I already felt too tired today so I am not very happy about the Lead result,” said Julia Chanourdie who is looking forward to have a lot of sleep after the difficult program. The second best climber in combined event became Mei Kotake, JPN, and Fanny Gibert, FRA.
Fedir Samoilov took the victory also in the Lead in Bratislava in men´s category. He was the only one to reach the top.
“I think the route was really perfect. It was quite hard but I like it like this. Everything was perfect. I really like the routes of the routsetter Martin Zbranek. I am mostly a Lead climber so I enjoyed it the most of all three events,” said Samoilov, who studies at the National University of Sports in Kiev, Ukraine.
In Lead category, silver went to Thomas Joannes of France. Ruben Firnenburg of Germany took the bronze.
In combined event, Samoilov was joined by silver Elias weiler of Austria and Yuji Fujiwaki of Japan.
Interview with FISU representative Milan Augustin
It is not easy to organise a climbing championships, thinks Milan Augustin of FISU
The World University Sport Climbing Championships in Bratislava also welcome the FISU repre-sentative Milan Augustin who is the director of the winter Universiade and works in FISU office in Lausanne since 2005. He speaks about how the Bratislava championship has been selected and what is the importance of such events.
How did this championship happen to be in Bratislava?
It is the second edition of the University World Championship for this sport. It was an initiative of the Slovak Republic and the Slovak University Sports Association that was interested in organising this event on a high level. This event has a meaning not only for FISU but for the University Sports Associ-ation as well because they can promote themselves. In 2015, they organised a part of Winter Univer-siade in Štrbské pleso and Osrblie. And we know that the Universiades in 1999 and 1987 which took place in Štrbské pleso were at high level. Slovakia knows how to organise these events and so FISU put their trust into Slovak University Sports Association to organise this important event with big attendance. It is big not only in number of athletes but also in number of continents. It really is a high level event and we are happy we can bring the final competitions to the spectators also via live stream.
Why Slovakia was selected for climbing? They were candidates for more sports. What was the as-signing process?
I think there was no assigning process, but there were strong candidates for other sports. So, Slo-vakia was selected to organise this event, which is difficult in means of organising at high level. It really is not easy to organise this championship and so we think that FISU took a good step to put this championship into Slovak University Sports Association‘s hands.
There is also observing team from Grenoble. How the cooperation is with them going and what did they learn here?
I am with them every day, I keep in touch with them and we know the people who came here from previous events. They often come to Universiades or university championships. They see that this event is at a high level and we wanted them to talk with the event representatives so the details that are not really finalised would be worked on better next time. I think the standard was set high and it will be difficult to overcome it.
The French said that the collaboration with the club, between the university association and sport climbing federation is really good and that is the reason climbing is very popular. How is it in Slovakia? Is the collaboration good, and how is the collaboration of association and federation in general?
In my personal opinion, there is some space to work on. It’s about the conception of the sport back-ground in Slovakia. And that includes also other sports, not only climbing. University sports should be more supported because when we see the athletes doing sport their whole life and not having possi-bility to be employed later in life, it is a pity. So, the universities, individual plans, studies should be adapted so the athletes can do both sports and study.
So I suppose there is interest to do sports from the students’ side. How it can be improved nowa-days when most students just sit behind their computers?
First of all, it has to come from each university to make it possible for students to do sports. So they have their study plans adapted to their daily routine that they need. The good things we had in past do not exist anymore, and each university should took into consideration also the demandingness of the sport of their student that works on the successes and representation of Slovakia at top interna-tional events. The representatives at high positions should take into consideration that sport is not only about professionalism but also about what comes next, after the sport carrier. In FISU, we work together with the International Olympic Committee on a project about dual carrier. We are trying to develop this project at universities. Our motto is „Today stars, tomorrow leaders“, and we try to en-sure that the athletes will not get lost in their social life after their sport carrier ends.
What is awaiting you next as a FISU representative? What events are next in the schedule and what is FISU focusing at right now?
We are getting ready for the Universiade in Krasnoyarsk. It is Siberia, it is different from other coun-tries, and people have a different way of life. Each athlete that comes there can admire not only beautiful nature but also the sporting sites that are at high international level, fulfilling Olympic standards. We appreciate that the Russian Federation with the support from government can pre-pare an event like that. Then we have an event in Lucern, Switzerland, where there again is not only a beautiful nature but also sporting sites at a high level. There is a project for future about the winter Universiades that I am in charge of, and we have an amazing candidate for 2023 that already organ-ised the Olympics and the Universiade in 1972 and 1980 – Lake Placid in the USA. It was not selected yet but both they and we are working hard to assign the event to them.
When it comes to Slovakia, is there any tendency to organise any championship or Uuniversiade again, or any tendency to candidate for any event?
It depends on the initiative of the Slovak University Sports, their financial capabilities. It is very hard to say. We would like to come to Slovakia with various projects because we have very good experi-ence with Slovakia, but it all depends on the financial support because not even volunteers work for free nowadays as they should, and to organise an event is not easy at all.
Press release - Bouldering winners
Bouldering peaked the University Sport Climbing Championships in Eurovea
BRATISLAVA, 22 June 2018 – On Friday evening, the World University Sport Climbing Championships continued with the Bouldeing finals with the best six men and women. The titles from Eurovea shopping mall went to American Me-gan Lynch and Austrian Elias Weile.
Megan Lynch was very pleased for her title. „I am living my dream. It is my first world title ever. Bouldering in my most favourite event and I am glad it went so well. Bratislava was amazing, I felt so well here and the fans were cheering for us. The support of my team mates also helped me a lot. They are my inspiration and I am glad I can celebrate this victory with them. I feel on the top of the world and I cannot even describe the feelings well.“
The Austrian climber Weiler was pleased thanks to the change of the weather. „In this moment, I am very happy I managed it. The last boulder was very difficult and I am glad I managed it as the only climber. I think the weather helped me today because it was not as hot as yesterday and the climbing was less complicated in such weather. This is my first victory on international level and I am over the moon,“ said Weiler.
Interview with the Tokyo 2020 President of Sport Climbing Bureau Prof. Shinji Mizumura
People will welcome climbing at Olympics, says prof. Mizumura
Prof. Shinji Mizumura is one of the honorary guests of the World University Championships in Sport Climbing in Bratislava. Towards Tokyo, as a President of Sport Climbing Bureau and porfessor at the Meiji University, he gets busier with preparation works for the new Olympic event.
How long have you been doing this job for Tokyo 2020?
Just since recently, I work at a Japan university as a professor, and I teach sport climbing, especially speed climbing. And the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association wanted me to coop-erate. I work for them for five or six years now.
And do you still teach at university?
Yes, I still have commitment at Meiji University in Tokyo.
You used to do decathlon, have you tried also climbing before?
Yes. I teach a lot of sport climbing classes at university.
So is it very popular?
Not so much. Bouldering is much more popular, especially at young age. I am trying to make speed climbing popular as well.
But Japanese climbers are so strong. How is it possible?
There are two main reasons, the first is that there is national sports festival in Japan, and sport climbing is included. There are 47 regions in Japan and each region can support and give big money to support sport climbing section and sport festival supports two disciplines: bouldering and lead. The second reason is that there are 500 bouldering gyms in Japan. Plus public facilities.
Is it because it is easier to build bouldering wall than high speed or lead wall?
So about the Olympic Games in Tokyo, can we say that Tokyo already lives by the Olympics? Can you feel the Olympic atmosphere there already?
I think so. Because Olympics Games in Tokyo will happen for the second time, the first time it was when I was born, in 1962. This time there will be over a hundred thousand volunteers needed. May-be this time many Japanese people will want to participate in Olympic Games, because it is so fasci-nating to watch the sports. Next year, the World Cup will be in Japan but that is not as big event.
There are still two years until the Olympic Games, so what do you think of the preparations of the Games?
This weekend, the first combined event will be held in Japan so there are two meanings of it: how to coordinate the combined event at Olympics Games and the second, how Japanese athletes can expe-rience the event.
It will be at Olympic site?
So it is just a test how to organise such competition?
How many people are involved in climbing, in your team now? Or is it just you?
There are not many people in my team, about ten only are involved in climbing, but there is about a hundred people involved in venue, judges, referees.
Do you think it is hard to organise climbing as an Olympic competition? Is it different compared to the World Cup or World Championship?
Nobody knows yet. The head of Organising Committee of Sport Climbing is a powerful man and I think it is okay for Japanese people to hold this event in Tokyo.
So when they announced that climbing will be Olympic sport, were you happy?
I think people will welcome it. Usually, it has three disciplines, this time, it will be combined event and I think that no one knows what is the best. After Tokyo Olympic Games, it will be evaluated. But my personal opinion, I was for combined event. I like the idea very much.
What do you think of this university championship? What did you learn?
Many universities that competed could not compete in speed climbing. You can see that not many athletes were on starting list. I think the combined event can help.
What do you think of Bratislava? Is it your first time here? It is different, right?
Yes. I like Bratislava very much because the atmosphere of the town is safe, it is a safe city. I think Tokyo was safe 30 years ago, but not now, especially for foreign people.
In your job now, do you travel a lot now before the Olympics or do you mostly stay in Japan?
My job is firstly as a coach of speed climbing in Japan, and I am head of the sport climbing in Tokyo, so I am a coach and an organiser, and my job is getting busier and busier.
Where do you go after Bratislava?
I will travel to Chamonix and some Chinese cities, then to Innsbruck.
Press release - Kriz and Jaubert winning in Speed
Kriz and Jaubert became the Speed university world champions in Bratislava
BRATISLAVA, June 22, 2018: The World University Sport Climbing Championship knows the first medallists. On Friday 22 June, the top 16 speed climbers met in the final runs in both men and women categories on the K2 climbing wall. Anouck Jaubertand Jan Kriz took the gold medals.
The fastest performance in the qualification of the men´s category was shown by the Czech climber Jan Kříž clocking 6.31s. The women´s qualification was clearly won by the Polish athlete Patrycja Chudziak achieveing 8.35s.
The final has the form of the head to head fights with eight best couples at the start. In the end, two best climbers in both categories were selected. Among men, it was Jan Kříž and Ukrainian Kostiantyn Pavlenko.
„I am very satisfied as I was struggling with injuries past in two years. This is the second month since I was competing at the World Cup in Moscow, where I achieved fifth place. At that time, I started to feel that my shape is improving and I am fi-nally healthy. Now, I just confirmed it. Already on Tuesday, I will do the state ex-ams at my university in Brno where I study coaching of swimming. That was also the reason why I decided to focus only on Speed climbing this year. But I will try all events in some time. I have the next three World Cups in my schedule - Swit-zerland, France, Italy. I hope my shape will be OK like here in Bratislava,” said Kriz who managed 8.14s in the final.
Kostiantyn Pavlenko: “I am disappointed I was not able to win the final. Silver is, of course, nice but my target was to win. I will take very nice memories from Bra-tislava and very valuable experiences. The sport climbing is my passion and I be-lieve I will be able to get next successes in the future,” said Pavlenko who achieved the time of 8.27s.
The two fastest women were Anouck Jaubert and the Pole Patrycja Chudziak.
However, the Polish competitor made a huge mistake at the beginning and fell. The French then only needed to finish with 9.28s. In semi-final, she managed 7.99s.
Anouck Jaubert: “The competition was really tough for me as the wall was a bit different than the others at the other competitions. I did not do well at the training but step by step, I learned it. I got used to it and I am very glad I managed to win. Speed is my main event and I started with the other only this year,” said the world champion Jaubert.
The Pole was trying to hide the disappointment: “It is climbing, this can happen anytime. I wanted to go even faster and made a mistake, it is a sport… I am not sad, I know I have many other competitions in front of me,” said Chudziak.
Interview with Jerome Meyer
Bratislava is doing very well, says the Sport Climbing star and Head of Olympic Coordination at the IFSC, Jérôme Meyer
He dedicated his life to Sport Climbing and is working also this week in Bratislava at the FISU World University Championship. We asked Jérôme Meyer, the 2008 European Boulder Champion and current Head of Olympic Coordination at the IFSC, about his thoughts and impressions of the championship in Slovakia, this sport and its future.
Jérôme, for now, are you satisfied with the championship in Bratislava?
So far, we are very satisfied. We came here six months ago for a site visit and there were still a lot of things to do. We came back to discover that the walls, sports facilities and the event services – hotels, transportation, etc. – were well prepared. When we started this event, no one was over-stressed and that is a sign that everything is fully under control.
You’ve seen many climbing walls in your life. What do you think of the facilities, the wall here?
The walls are great and this is an interesting concept, to have part of them in the city centre and the other part in existing facilities like the K2 climbing gym. This is a sustainable model for the organising committee and the legacy of the event.
Then what makes the difference for the competition is not really the design of these but instead the holds and volumes put on the wall. Now, the use at IFSC events is to build a simple wall, having large flat panels with a maximum of 2 or 3 different inclinations, a simpler design than the one we have here. Then what creates the variety and complexity of the routes are the volumes and holds of various sizes added.
This principle works on every wall and even an existing one – like in the Lead venue – matches very well with what is needed for the competition.
What is the key factor in preparing for a competition like this?
We have different options for presenting our Sport Climbing events, each one is unique. It depends on the scale of the event, what its position is regarding the territory where it is hosted and the expectation of the various audiences, whether they are on-site or a digital/TV one.
For the World University Championships, we need to offer, first of all, an experience to the athletes that values their student status. We therefore try to have, as much as possible, one single accommodation where all the people involved are hosted.
Then, since it is a world level event, we need to involve the highest standard of equipment and very experienced officials, this participates to showcasing the best of our sport to the audience while offering the athletes routes and problems in which they can express themselves.
Finally, from a more operational perspective, since the IFSC is not the owner of the event and the IFSC is not in charge of all the aspects, it is essential to create strong relationships with the organising committee. Sharing knowledge and educating each other about our respective regulations. This has worked very well with the team here.
What do you think of the number of countries participating in Bratislava? Is it enough or did you expect a little bit more?
There is an increase in the participation compared to Shanghai in 2016 so that’s very good news. We are also happy because the awareness of this event is improving. For Shanghai, the level of participation suffered a bit because of the new status of Sport Climbing amongst the portfolio of World University Championships.
It needed also some time for the connection between the National University Sports Federation and our member National Federations to be made correctly.
My guess is that this trend will keep on for the 2020 edition and beyond to reach the point where the level of participation is comparable to the IFSC events.
This might eventually require the Organising Committee to manage longer and more complex events, but this is a good problem to have.
Is it hard to attract young people to climbing?
Sport Climbing is super popular among youth. We have many clubs and climbing gyms worldwide where their courses for kids are packed.
It’s a natural activity for them and with the development of the facilities around the world this will continue for sure.
Does it help that it will appear in the Olympic Games now? Did you feel an increase in interest because of this?
The Youth Olympic Games and Olympic Games are a fantastic accelerator and show the best of it. They will show that it’s a true and safe sport, and that – in this form – is not climbing mountains in an ice and rock environment. They will also see that it is a sport that implies strong educational values.
Now, a little bit about you: do you still climb yourself?
Yes I do, with a renewed pleasure every time it happens. I was an athlete from 1998 to 2008, and I won 3 World Cup titles as well as the European Championship title.
I still climb for my pleasure and the pleasure of doing it with friends without the pressure of competition. The great thing with Sport Climbing is the variety of its form. As I mentioned, Sport Climbing is not Mountaineering but this is also an option if you have climbing skills. You may also go with your kids and share the pleasure of climbing on different routes while being in the same place. You may finally travel for this and the rocks you find are an integral part of the trip, climbing on routes you may not find near your home. All this creates new experiences, and this is why I’m still climbing.
What did you take from your sport career?
I was a student during my sport career, in a business school, and when I decided to retire from competition this was also the moment when I was finishing these studies. Approximately at the same moment the IFSC Sport Manager position became open and I was lucky enough to be selected for it. So, the first thing I took from my sport career was the purpose of my professional mission, working for a sport, for my sport.
Then, provided you are in a professional environment that allows it, you can transfer a lot of things from a sport career. As an athlete, you mainly know yourself very well and are trained to manage moments of stress and have a problem-solver mode. Athletes are also driven by pleasure and challenges, this is something that must be respected, and finding pleasure in your job is essential for an athlete.
If this is absent, the professional life of an athlete is harder; if this is present, athletes are generally high-value assets for the organisation.
Did you also have the opportunity to climb here in Bratislava?
No, I didn’t have the opportunity and the reason is that when I am at the events it’s very difficult to find the time. In your mind, you are not really in the mood for climbing. But it happens a few times and I was able to try the routes prepared for the competition. This was indeed a nice experience and also a great source of inspiration for my work since I could have a double perspective on the routes, but this becomes more and more difficult as our events grow in complexity over the last years.
What are the next events you have in your schedule after this?
We are still in the middle of the season, with many World Cups in Bouldering, Lead and Speed happening. In terms of major events, we are going to have the IFSC Youth World Championships in Moscow in early August, but I may not be able to attend as I am focusing on the Youth Olympic Games. Then we have the IFSC World Championships in Innsbruck, in the first part of September, and then we are heading to Buenos Aires for the first Youth Olympic Games in the history of Sport Climbing. It’s a nice and exciting menu!
Interview with Leo Guilbert, the future organiser of the WUC 2020 in Grenoble
Two attitudes of climbing and the host city of Grenoble in 2020
The next FISU World University Sports Climbing Championships will host Grenoble in the Olympic year 2020. The French observing team is also on the visit in Brati-slava during the event. Leo Guilbert is a member of the groups and praises the increasing number of countries and interest of the youth.
We see many strong French competitors here. How it is possible they are so good?
All the girls are in the national team and they are very experienced from the inter-national events. They are used to compete at the World Cups, World champion-ships… they are very strong. On the other hand, we have just one man here. I don’t know the selection procedures but the current best French climbers are fulltime athletes and so they do not study at the universities at the moment.
Who is the climbing superstar in France in this sport?
We have Anouck Jaubert who tied the women’s Speed climbing world record at the World Cup in Moscow last April. She managed to tie the women’s Speed climbing world record (7.32 seconds) set by Kaplina last year. And we have also Julia Chanourdie who is one of the most compete climber and maybe will participate to the Olympics in Tokyo.
How does the cooperation with the universities work now?
The French climbing federation has a very good cooperation with the university sports. There is very good a relationship between these two parts and that is also the reason why we have so many participants at University Championships.
Do you feel the rising interest in climbing in France?
The situation has really changed in the past 20 years. There are a lot of private centres and the new walls are still being built. Before, you had many climbers do-ing the sport outside on the natural rocks. But now, there are many new artificial ones, and climbing comes to people. In the past ten years, the number of member of the French federation increased by 35%.
So who are the climbers you want to attract to this sport?
There are two attitudes, two mentalities in climbing: First is the mentality of the people who prefer the routes in the nature. They say climbing is not a competition but a passion and their lifestyle. They climb the wall with their body but also in their head. The second attitude is the competitive climbing.
Is there something specific you will work on and trying to improve before the championships in Grenoble?
We would like to cooperate with our universities in Grenoble and especially in-volved the students. The idea is to make an event for students by students. Also, we have a very good relation with the climbing federation and we rely on to build a successful World University Championship.
What did you learn from Bratislava?
In Bratislava, we’ve seen the expertise of the organising committee. Propose the bouldering outside the Shopping Center was great to promote sport climbing in Slovakia.
Interview with Peter Kuric
Peter Kuric: I’m not Spiderman
They started calling him Spiderman from Handlová. But he does not like it much. 17-year-old sport climber Peter Kuric will represent Slovakia at the Youth Olympic Games in Argentina, but he also thinks about the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.
How do you prepare for the top competition of this season in Buenos Aires?
I did not expect to qualify to the Youth Olympics, especially on the climbing wall which I did not specially train for. Now I train very intensively, five times a week, sometimes every day and I focus on all three disciplines – lead, speed and bouldering. We also climb on the rocks sometimes where I clean my mind.
Climbing has become an Olympic sport. Did anything change for you?
Probably I train a little more and more often on the wall which I wasn’t used to so much before. But otherwise it is not much different. It has brought me some sort of new motivation.
Do you already live the 2020 Olympic dream?
Qualification to Tokyo will be in a year, so I want to concentrate mainly on the wall. My strong point is lead which is climbing with the rope. But I think that I have a good chance in bouldering as well and now I train speed the most, because we hadn’t have conditions in Slovakia for that. I didn’t want to fall behind in the world.
What are your biggest achievements and best times?
I finished on the 6th place at European Cup and at the World Championship I was sixth as well. Normally I placed in top 15 within European competition. Then there are successes on rocks. In speed I climb the wall in about 8 seconds, but I definitely need to improve. In my category the juniors make it in 6.5 or 7 seconds. However, I don’t want to forget about other disciplines.
How is the competition? Where are the biggest rivals?
Comparing to how I see the events in the world, athletes are far better than in Slovakia in terms of training. Developed countries are for example Japan, USA, France or Italy – these are climbing powers.
How did you actually start with climbing?
I was about nine years old and my best friend and I attended some hobbies such as dance or something. He wanted to go climbing but I didn’t know anything about it. He and his mum talked me into it. Then I fell in love with climbing.
What do you like the most about this sport?
I like the freedom and adrenalin. I can clean my mind on rocks, it is really cool.
Have you ever had a serious injury? Are you afraid sometimes?
So far I haven’t done anything serious myself and I haven’t had any hard fall. There was some climbing wound like stretched tendon. It is relatively safe sport even though it does not seem to be. In my opinion it is safer than football or hockey.
Where do you feel the best? Do you have any favourite rock or wall?
I prefer rocks rather than climbing walls because I can be in nature. I like travelling to the rocks in Spain or Austria. I like climbing walls in Austria as well and in Italy which is great also.
And what about Slovakia?
We have many rocks in here. I like to go to Súľov or Banská Bystrice and Donovaly. Speaking about climbing walls, I go to Bratislava or Považská Bystrica. I also climb on ice but I will do it more when I’m older.
Do you have any climbing idols?
I have to admit that I don’t have any idol; I try to concentrate on myself and on what it happening around me.
Do your parents have a fear that you have chosen such sport?
It sounds peculiar: Mum, I’m going to climb with my friends. She was afraid of me at the beginning. She thought it was dangerous but as long as I was with good people who taught me in the beginning, nothing bad could happen. Mum often drives me now and she helps me, so I’m thankful her. Even she tried climbing.
Your achievements make you well-known person. How do you feel about it?
I like fans, especially when they support us during the competition. But I confess that when I’m on the wall, I turn off and I don’t feel anything and just focus on climbing.
And what about your original nickname?
In our regional television they call me Spiderman from Handlová but if I could choose – don’t call me like this. I do not mind but I do not like it either.
Press release - Opening
The World University Sport Climbing Championship are starting tomorrow in Slovakia, the best climbers are coming to Bratislava, the Slovaks want to make it to the finals.
BRATISLAVA, June 2018 - The Slovak metropolis will welcome the world’s best climbers The World University Sport Climbing Championship will take place in Bratislava, on the biggest climbing wall of the country, from June 20 to June 23.
Around 150 competitors and their coaches from 26 countries will compete in the capital city of Slovakia to win the title of the world’s best university climber. Among the competitors there are three Slovaks – Robert Luby, Andrej Capko, and Jakub Jiří Svub. "The best training is at the competition. We attended several competitions in the last half a year, both at home and abroad. We are pushing each other forward with Robert Luby. I would be happy if one of us makes it to the finals in Bratislava. So the spectators would have something to look at and someone to support. It will be difficult and the competition will be very good for sure," said Švub before the start of the championship.
His words about good competition are supported by the starting list. There is the world record holder on the 15 metres high wall (5,48 s), Iranian Reza Alipour, the world champion from two years ago, Polish Marcin Dzienski or his fellow country-women – academic world champion Anna Brožeková and U19 world champion Pat-rycja Chudziaková.
Championship was assigned to Bratislava on December 24, 2015. The Christmas joy changed to long preparations, the organisers have started to work on the event in 2016. Approximately a month before the championship in Bratislava, almost eve-rything is ready. „The preparations of the sites and the technical security are fi-nishing. We finished the last preparation during the weekend - recostructions, pa-inting of the walls or the carpet changes. We will be 100% ready,“ said the organi-sation committee president of the championship, Peter Hamaj.
The championship will take place in K2 in Bratislava
The main site of the climbing championship will be the climbing wall K2 in Bratisla-va, which is the only wall in Slovakia suitable for speed climbing. „This wall fulfils the criteria for two disciplines – lead and speed. Each wall needs to fulfil the same parametres – the slope and length. There are rules also for the position of the holds which shape is specific for this kind of climbing,“ said the organisation committee president Peter Hamaj. A big overhang dominates the wall in Bratislava and is though even for experienced clmbers. It is surrounded by perpendicular and slightly overhanging sections. The area of the wall is 2000 m² with the maxumum height of 15,5 m. „The hall with the climbing wall is located on Stará Ivanská ces-ta. The entrance will be free of charge for everyone,“ added Hamaj. Some compe-titions will take place also on the square in front of Eurovea shopping centre. The main programme will take place on Friday, June 22. "In the morning there will be an accompanying event connected to the Olympic Day, and in the afternoon men and women finals will take place," added Hamaj.
Sport climbing at the Olympic Games
The World University Sport Climbing Championship are happening only for the se-cond time. Sport climbing is one of the five new sports of the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020. „Sport climbing will appear at the Olympics for the very first time. We are happy we can show this sport also in Slovakia before the Olympics take place. The championship will be unique. This extreme sport is not very traditio-nal, yet it attracts more and more attention among its fans,“ said Július Dubovský, the Slovak University Sports Association president.
Memorandum about the cooperation between Slovak Olympic Committee and Slovak University Sports Association
The Slovak University Sports Association and the Slovak Olympic Committee agreed n a memorandum about reciprocal cooperation. The main four points are:
- development of sports and Olympionism at Slovak universities,
- common method of “double carrier of athletes” system and programme in Slovakia,
- organising common events,
- taking advantage of common experience in organising and directing of sporting events.
Both parties committed to help each other with dratfs and realisation of common projects, as well as to cooperate also outside of these projects. "The con-nection between Slovak Olympic Committee and the World University Sport Clim-bing Championship was natural. For the Olympic Games in 2020 in Tokio, the In-ternational Olympic Commitee decided to add sport climbing to Olympic sports. At the occasion of the World Olympic Day, taking place on June 23, we found it su-itable to connect one of our events and the Olympic Day celebration on June 22 in Bratislava, and to present new Olympic sport," said the media director of Slovak Olympic Committee Ľubomír Souček.
Talented Kuric: It is a beautiful sport
Sport climbing made it to the programme of the third Youth Olympic Games which will take place in Octomer in Buenos Aires. Peter Kuric is the very first Slovak who qualified for these Olympics "I started with sport climbing when I was nine. I want to get better and do what I like,"
said Kuric. This talented young man has a huge goal – to qualify for the Olympics 2020. "Of course, it is a very nice motivation. I will do my best to get there,"
And what would he say about people interested in this more and more famous sport? “There is no need to be scared. It is a beautiful sport, but it is important to do it with heart. Because you like it, not because you have to,"
said Slovak clim-ping hope Peter Kuric
The World University Sport Climbing Championship was opened
A beautiful summer evening welcomed athletes and teams from 24 countries at the square in front of Eurovea Gallery in Bratislava on Tuesday, 19th of June.
The ceremony of the second edition of the World University Sport Climbing Championship was opened by performance of dance and artistic group Argola followed by the flag parade of all 24 nations.
Slovak national team was brought by Peter Kuric, the only Slovak junior in history who has managed to get into 20 world’s best climbers. Famous opera singer Pavol Remenár sang the Slovak national anthem and the academy anthem Gaudeamus Igitur.
President of the Slovak University Sports Association Július Dubovský was the first one who took part in the official opening session. “It is a pleasure for us to organise this championship and I believe we can provide professional conditions for sport performances and the stay of all athletes in this historical and beautiful country. I believe that we will remember this championship as a top sporting event. I wish everyone a pleasant stay in Bratislava,” said Július Dubovský.
Omar Al-Hai, the chairman of the FISU International Control Committee also wished a lot of success to all the athletes. “FISU sees the 2018 World University Sport Climbing Championship as an opportunity for the university students to unite and share their culture and wonderful experiences,” said Al-Hai. “I believe this event will be successful for each of you, respecting each other and being fair,” the chairman added.
The championship was officially opened by Dušan Ťažký, the general director of sport section of the Ministry of Education, Science, Research and Sport of Slovak Republic. The oath of the athletes was presented by Jakub Švub and Lenka Mičicová.
The competition will start on Wednesday 20th of June by qualification in K2 climbing centre and it will culminate with finals on Saturday.